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Ethan Becker

Ethan Becker

Read more about the son of Marion Rombauer Becker and grandson of Irma S. Rombauer.


Pucker Up with Lemons

Lemons brighten up the flavor of any dish. We are very much in favor of the frequent use of fresh squeezed lemon juice to bring out and enliven the flavors of meat, fish, poultry, and even vegetables. A squirt of lemon juice can enhance the natural flavor of any ingredient, just as a dash of salt does.

The juiciest lemons are those with thin, smooth, yellow skins. Meyer lemons, a lemon-tangerine cross, are less tart and pungent and may be added to tossed salads and fruit cups. They may also be used in any way that ordinary lemons are or may be preserved, below.

To get the greatest amount of juice out of a lemon, roll the whole fruit on a hard surface, gently but firmly pressing it with your palm while rolling, before cutting. Lemons can be juiced quickly by squeezing the juice through a small sieve or by holding the cut side of the citrus fruit against the palm of your hand and squeezing firmly. If the fruit is held properly, the seeds will be trapped. Lemon juice can be stored for later use. Pour fresh lemon juice into ice cube trays and freeze, then store the cubes in heavy plastic bags in the freezer.

Brighten up your kitchen with these traditional, and unusual, ways to cook with lemon.

Lemon Curd Bars
Eighteen 3 x 2-inch bars

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Whisk together in a bowl:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar
Pinch of salt
Add:
3/4 cup (11/2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Using a pastry blender or your fingertips, cut in the butter until the mixture is the size of small peas. Press the dough into the bottom and 3/4 inch up the sides of an ungreased 13 x 9-inch baking pan. Bake until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer the pan to a rack and reduce the oven temperature to 300°F.
Whisk together in a large bowl until well combined:
6 large eggs
3 cups sugar
Stir in:
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from about 5
lemons)
Sift over the top and stir in until well blended and smooth:
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
Pour the batter over the baked crust. Bake about 35 minutes, until the topping is set. Cool in the pan on a rack.

Salt-preserved lemons
1 quart

Prepare these pickles to flavor a seafood soup or stew, vegetable salad, lamb casserole, poached chicken, or stuffing. Preserved lemons will keep for 1 year as long as they are completely covered with salted juice and not contaminated by bacteria. For this reason, always remove the lemons from the jar with clean dry tongs.
Wash, dry, remove stems, and set in a warm 200°F oven for 5 minutes to dry thoroughly:
2 pounds lemons
Measure:
1/3 cup coarse salt
Spoon 2 tablespoons of the salt into a sterilized wide-mouth quart jar. Roll the lemons on the counter to release their juice. Quarter a lemon lengthwise, stopping 1/2 inch from the bottom so the quarters fan out but remain attached at one end. Gently open the lemon and sprinkle the 8 cut surfaces with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Carefully squeeze the lemon juice into a bowl. Close the lemon, pack into the jar, and add the juice. Continue with the remaining lemons, sprinkling each layer with 11/2 teaspoons salt. If the juice does not cover the lemons when all are in the jar, add:
Fresh lemon juice to cover
Leave a 1/2-inch space at the top of the jar. Force out air bubbles by sliding a narrow spatula between the lemons and the side of the jar—slowly turn the jar while moving the spatula up and down, forcing up any bubbles. Then be sure the lemons are still covered with liquid and there is only a 1/2-inch headspace. Wipe the rim of the jar. Fold a square of plastic wrap to make 4 layers and place over the top, then tightly cap the jar.
Place the jar on a saucer in a warm place to cure for 1 month. Each day, turn the jar upside down to redistribute the salted juice. After the curing period, refrigerate or keep in a cool, dry place. To use, run the lemons under running water.

Ohio Shaker Lemon Pie
One 9-inch double-crust pie

The very tart filling in this favorite consists of paper-thin lemon slices macerated in sugar until tender and sweet. It may sound odd, but don’t be afraid—it is as delicious as it is unusual.
Grate and reserve the zest from:
2 large lemons
Slice the lemons paper-thin, removing the seeds. Combine the lemon slices and zest in a bowl with:
2 cups sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
Cover and let stand at room temperature for 2 to 24 hours, stirring occasionally, the longer, the better.
Have ready:
Two 9-inch pie dough crusts
Line a 9-inch pie pan with one crust. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Whisk in a large bowl until frothy:
4 large eggs
Whisk in:
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Stir in the lemon mixture. Pour the filling into the bottom crust and level with the back of a spoon. Cover with a pricked or vented top crust or a lattice.
Bake the pie for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F and bake until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean, 20 to 30 minutes more. Let cool completely on a rack. The pie can be refrigerated for up to 2 days, but it should be served at room temperature.

 


Lemon and Parsley Butter (Maître d’hôtel butter)
1/4 cup

Delicious over grilled or broiled steak.
Cream with a fork or wooden spoon in a small bowl:
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, softened
Gradually stir in flavorings as desired, along with:
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 to 11/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and white pepper to taste

Lemon Oregano Vinaigrette
3/4 cup

Also a delicious marinade for chicken, fish, or pork.
Bring to a boil in a medium saucepan, and reduce to 1/4 cup:
2 cups fresh lemon juice
Set aside. Heat in a small skillet:
1 tablespoon olive oil
Add and cook, stirring, until soft:
1/2 shallot, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped

Remove to a blender and add the reduced lemon juice and:
1 teaspoon honey
Blend until smooth. With the blender running, gradually add:
1/2 cup olive oil
Season with:
Salt and black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons chopped oregano

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